Dienstag, 4. Oktober 2011

Day 2 - Asakusa, Ginza, and waiting for Amber

Day 2 has passed already. Not completely, of course, but it is already dark outside, my feet hurt, and I decided to spend the next two hours or so writing a blog post while waiting for Amber rather than strolling some more through the nightly streets, now lit by advertisement for pinball centers and restaurants.

Day 2 brought me to see two very different sides of Japan. One, the classical, as we imagine it from movies. Modern, yet based in the old culture of Pagodas, Shrines, and Buddhist temples.
Just a few blocks from the hostel is the heart of the Asakusa city part, which is a giant Buddhist temple called Sensoji. The temple is build around a golden statue that two fishermen found in the river while fishing. It is the Goddess of Kannon (Goddess of Mercy) that Japanese from all over the islands come here to pray to. The statue itself cannot be seen (it is whopping 6cm small!) but the temple is very splendid. Around it are several other small classic Japanese buildings, it has a giant gate with a big red lampoon in front, guarded by the Gods of Wind and Fire. And then there is the second highest Pagoda of Japan, with over 60m it looks as if cut out of a movie.
I spent quite some time around the temple, watching the tourist groups, many of them Japanese students in uniforms, pray and take pictures. I had found a nice spot in the shadow to eat my "Sushi Sandwich", as I wanna call it, which is the best invention since bread came sliced. For rice and nori lovers, anyways.
I visited another temple just behind Sensoji, which is Shinto. It is literally right next to the Buddhist Sensoji shrine, just like the two religions seem to live happily next to each other in Japan. This temple is not as splendid, but clean and simple. Other than the Buddhist temple, where the Goddess Kannon is praised, this Shinto temple was actually built for the two fisherman who found Kannon, not for the tiny Goddess statue itself.

After a nice coffee I jumped into the Ginza line metro, which had already brought me to Shibuya yesterday, and drove to Ginza. I would liken Ginza to 5th avenue in New York, only that every side street is like 42 Avenue. Most buildings are very new and host shops like Prada, Gucci, and Ferragamo. Tiffany's, of course, is there as well.
I was hit by a blasting Lady Gaga song from a dark store, and saw it was Ambercrombie & Fitch. Now after having heard so much about their marketing, and actually liking the clothes I have seen friends wear, I decided to give this hyped brand a try. To say it right away: NOT worth it.
Coming in I had to wait for the elevator, surrounded by 5 guys in Ambercrombie Dress-up and Flip-Flops, and one eye-candy guy, half naked but in ripped jeans, showing off his Abs that were about twice as prominent as Taylor Lautner's in Twilight, with his pants so low that it needed to be rated R. Now, while I can appreciate Art and love to look at a nice belly, it did feel a bit weird that this was a store. The elevator came and we (by now some more people had joined, waiting for the ultimate shopping experience) were brought to the 8th of 11 floors. (Yes, that's right, 11!) Each floor was barely lit (I barely saw what was being sold, let alone the colors), Lady Gaga was blasting, and it smelled so much like Aftershave that I could actually taste it. I already didn't like it and thus decided to walk downwards and not go up for the next couple of floors. The artwork in the staircases showed young blond men exercising in groups. The first association was the Nazi Propaganda for the Hitler Youth. Weird, to say the least. It looked a bit like the art from this painter, who always paints hard working, young, blond and blue-eyed men. I think he already had to hear those associations, too. I forgot his name. Either way, I passed more images of young men hunting or playing polo on my way down and had no joy in looking at the clothes as the music was too loud, I was barely recognizing any colors, and my nose felt numb from the smell. I had expected a lot more.
Across the street was a Zara store and I must say: How relaxing it was. Low electro minimal music, good lighting, and the subtle smell of cotton and a bit polyester. Way better.

My real shopping highlight though was another block down, or two. A 5 floor Yamaha Music shop. And right in the entrance hall, the one Clavinova that I dream of owning but had never had the chance to test it. The Modus F-11. A design masterpiece with amaaaaaazing sound. I tried that one, and I tried many many others. If I was a millionaire for example, I would take the matt black grand piano from for "only" 80.000 Euros. Or, if I had not too many millions to spend, the truly wonderful hybrid Clavinova Avant Grande (Style Edition, of course) from Yamaha itself. I tried them all. But for now, I am just aiming to get rich enough and find time for classes again to justify buying the first mentioned Modus F-11. Which, by the way, is nearly 2.500 cheaper in Japan than in Germany, and that's a good 30%. Unfair!
I spent over an hour in the store. It has two floors just with sheet music. Tobi would have loved it, they have a full cupboard just with Mandoline sheet music. On the highest floor they have Saxophones (too bad I wasn't allowed to try those, I guess they aren't willing to keep cleaning them of the spit from people that just like to try them all... like me). They had beautiful Sopranos Saxophones, and Clarinets, Fagotts, Oboes, en masse. Amazing. The strings were also on the upper floor and they had some really old Violins from Europe which looked simply stunning. And the silent edition for Violin, Bass, and Cello is designed so beautifully!! (Thats the electric ones, like Vanessa Mae played them).
In the basement I tried the electronic drum sets, which are awesome too. And they sell German Cajons from Schlagwerk. Need to remember that company. Cajons are the coolest... Although, if you know me, you might now it might get annoying if I was seated on a Cajon. Oh well...

I kept walking through Ginza for a while, checking out various luxury stores and just taking in the big-city-vibe.

When my feet got tired, I took the line home to Asakusa and shopped for some beer and dinner. The few restaurants that Lonely Planet names around this touristy area close their kitchen at 22h, and that's about when Amber will get here. Poor girl shall not be hungry, and I can still wait for dinner. So we will have Sushi Sandwiches and fresh noodles in the hostel. And a nice beer, of course. Kaoru unfortunately has to work late tonight, to get work done before her marriage. She is very stressed. But tomorrow we are going to Nikko all together. The Fantastic Three are reunited!

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